Macarons, Parti Deux is Better than Premier Parti

So today I went with Jessi on a quest to do more "research" for my expose (aka Presentation) on a topic of our choice. So naturally I picked some sugary delight. I started off doing chocolate, but realized that my true Parisian passion was macarons and switched to doing it on them. So I'm hunting down the top 5 macaron places. After today I have 1 left. Here's a low down of the other ones: Laduree, Gerard Mulot, Dallayou and Pierre Hermes. The last one is Lenotre!

 So I had 2 from Dallayou. Here's the first one of my lovelies. This is Early Grey Tea flavored. It was so perfumy with tea and wonderfully soft and creamy. It was airy like Laduree macarons, but still had a little bit of depth-ness.

 This prety little thang is Date Orange. The sugar on top gave it a wonderful extra crunch. The orange and the date meld really well together, lending a nice spice and futher depth of flavor. It was really light and nice. I enjoyed it.

This is the best of the best. I'm biased because I'm in LOVEEE with Rose flavoured things, but seriously Pierre Hermes outdid himself. This was much better than the one from Laduree. It was a warm day so the buttercream filling started to ooze out of the back! It was so creamy and wonderful. It was thick and had substance like a Gerard Mulot with the airy-ness of a Laduree. Serious perfection.

This is a specialty that they have for a limited time at Pierre Hermes. It's creme brulee!! It didnt' exactly taste like creme brulee, just really sweet and kind of caramel-ly. It was yummy but nothing note-worthy. I'm still glad i tried it. I liked the texture though because it was more like a Gerard Mulot, so it was denser!

Macarons, a Delightful Dream

So the only interesting place I've been too in the past couple of days is St. Germain-des-Pres. It is a huge church and the fact that it used to be even because it contained an abbey is a little daunting. And it's funny that today is Ash Wednesday and I didn't do any of the follow things I should have:

    1. Not eat meat (I had salami with lunch and chicken with dinner)

2. Get Ashes on my forehead by going to church (I don't know what I did with my time today)

3. Not eat anything lushious or heavy and give up something (I never could give anything up anyways, why start now that I'm here?)

Instead,  I decided on my way home from phonetiques today that I would FINALLY stop in one of the best macaron shops in Paris. I know, I'm a complete idiot for not going in there sooner when it's so close to my foyer and I pass it practically every day. Anyways, it's Gerard Mulot. It's been around since the 70s I believe, not as long as Laduree, but nevertheless still, if not more, delicious. I wanted pistachio and orange cinnamon, but somehow the woman gave me coconut. But ce n'est pas grave. The coconut ended up being my favorite of the two surprisingly. They were both much denser and creamier (and had more filling) than Laduree's macarons. And it was nice that since the shop isn't in a very touristy area, I just walked right in and didn't have to wait to pick anything out. Also it was nice not to be shoved in like a sardine. They have more vibrant colors and decorations on the outside of the macarons as well, unlike Laduree. Here's some photos so you can see for yourself, but I will definitely be going back (even if it is Lent)! 

So pretty right? The front one is the coconut and the back one is orange cinnamon.

Just look at how thick the filling is!! Much more than any from Laduree!

Coconut. It was lush and oozing with buttercream frosting (coconut as well). And I'm a new fan of coconut, so I was a bit aprehensive when I saw I had this flavour, but it worked sooo well! It was so wonderful!

Orange Cinnamon. It sounds weird, but it really worked. The spice from the cinnamon was really subtle and brought out the citrus flavour in a new way so it wasn't so head on citrus. It had a nice depth of flavour. 

Getting in the Italian Spirit

So I don't really know why I've been craving pizza lately. Maybe it's because spring break plans for the second week are FINALLY finalized (thanks to Jessi! She's seriously the best)! And last night I was reading how Italy is SOOOO much more easily accessible for gluten intolerant people. It's so common that people who test positive for celiacs get a STIPEND monthly to buy gluten free food for the REST OF THEIR LIVES. Seriously, I should've studied in Italy. It would be so much easier for me to find food instead of scrounging and longing all the time in France (don't worry, there's really a lot of options, but I'm starting to get sick of boulangeries and their lovely smell).

Anyways, I made a lovely pizza margherita. Well my spin of it. I made a fantastic sauce, at least I like to think so.

Cheap Kids Universal Tomato Sauce (applicable for both pasta and pizza)


Makes 2 servings

Half a medium sized yellow onion
2 small/medium or 1 large garlic clove
Can of Whole Peeled Tomatoes in Juices
2 tbsp of dried basil
salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil to saute

Heat a medium to large skillet on medium-high. When warm by placing your hand over the top, add oil. When oil is hot, add the onion and sautee until transluscent and soft about 3 minutes (make sure you add a little salt to the onions so it helps them to sautee better because it brings out the juices). Then add garlic and sautee for another minute or so. Enough so it's cook through but not brown (burnt garlic is the worst and it happens so quickly!). Then add the canned tomatoes. Squish to break them up with your hands so the tomatoes are smaller chunks (small enough to eat easily and not ruin the texture of the sauce). Add as much basil as you like, I don't really know how much I added, just add enough to taste. Same for salt and pepper. Mix and let boil for 3-4 minutes. Pour over cooked pasta or pizza and add some cheese and you're good to go!

The finished product. I used a Sharr gluten free pizza crust. It's an Italian brand and I think that's why it's another reason I'm so excited to go there. Because the crust was fantastic. It was crunchy on the bottom and crispy where it should be. The sauce was hot and bubbly along with the gooey mozarella. I really can't wait to eat authentic gluten free pizza from Italy (and pasta for that matter)! And I'm going to use the rest of the sauce to make pasta later this week! I only had half for dinner. Leftovers for lunch tomorrow!

Here's the pasta from the leftover sauce. I would maybe add some tomato paste to the recipe (like a tablespoon or so) just to give it some body because it didn't really stick well to the pasta. Nevertheless, it made a great sauce to dip homemade garlic bread into after finishing the pasta!

Some Food Updates

I've been eating a lot of good food lately (most of which I cooked) and I decided that I need to put up my food photos of everything I've been making lately!! Because I'm in Paris, and as interested as you all are in my  adventures, I know you're actually more interested in what I'm eating!

Look at how strangely shaped these 2 eggs were!!

But they made a DELICIOUS OMLETTE du Fromage (and salad and gf Baguette) 

I was DYING for pizza, so when I found the gluten free shells I was in HEAVEN. I put on chicken with spices, pesto, artichoke hearts, mozarella and onions I can carmalized in some olive oil

My weird fried rice (I burnt all the rice because I wasn't paying attention to it). It was so good! I'm glad I found gluten-free Tamari! Made my life!

All the Galettes!! This was a dessert one I had made with 4 fruit jam, nutella and coco powder

This was the first attempt! Emmentelle cheese! I put a mango and onion confit on it! So good!

My first Parisian Cafe! Sooo strong! I had to put in some sugar (not much. I wanted to try to drink it black). It's the equivalent to an espresso, which is why you don't put milk or cream in it. And if you sit at a bar in a cafe it's against the law to charge more than 1 euro for them. So I now have my hot beverage of choice (even though I much prefer tea and chocolat chaud)!

The bartender gave us these bonbons du sucre! They look like marshmellows but they have a hard outer sugary shell! These were strawberry flavored

Lunch crepes: Salami, artichoke hearts, pesto

Mozarella cheese, pesto, artichoke hearts

Salad verte: even the bagged salads are so much fresher and tastier than home. And the spring mix is cheaper than buying just romaine lettuce!

Laduree Macarons! The one in front is Fleur d'Orangier (orange blossom) and Pistachio

The Fleur d'orangier wasn't orange-y like I expected it to be. It was light and floral and very mild but perfumey flavor. The pistachio had a fantastic creamy center from the rich, thick buttercream. It was lushious. 

Stuck In Between

So I’ve been here a month and I’ve been wanting to mention this, so I’ll do this now.. But I feel like I’m starting to transition into not knowing where I fit in anymore. I don’t feel like an extreme tourist anymore, even though I still have so much left to see (but even people that live in there city hasn’t seen everything right?). And I know I’m not a native Parisian. But starting to have a routine and this being my home and daily life, I’m just in a transition. Now I don’t know if I could really live back home comfortably because don’t get me wrong, I love everyone there, but Paris just has so much more to offer than Buffalo. The 3000 years of history kinda helps.  But I know I’m not actually from here. The best was a couple of days ago some tourists asked me where they were. ME! They picked me! This means I’m not the super clueless one anymore! They asked me in slow French if they were in the Latin Quarter. So I even responded to them in English. Haha. I don’t know why I did that, maybe because that’s what French people do to me. I don’t feel snobbish, just proud that I know where things are now and that I don’t get lost every two seconds (at least on the left bank, the right bank is another story).

I know this is a natural feeling of studying abroad, I just don’t want to leave this place. I know I have 3 more months and that’s a long time, but I just don’t know. Paris has become so comfortable to me so easily, it’s a little weird and scary. I don’t know why I feel so comfortable in a large city. I think it’s might be because it’s so low to the ground that it doesn’t feel like a big city and I have friends here and a routine. It also makes me feel better now that I started to get the hang of customs and politeness, like saying hello and good bye to people in the elevator.

Don’t worry everyone, I will be coming home in May and I’m so excited to see you all already! I think I just don’t want to come home yet because one: I’ve only been here a month and two: the weather is still really crappy at home and it’s SOOO much nicer and spring-ier here. Love you and miss you all! <3

The Village Feel of Montmartre

Yesterday I took a trip to Montmartre finally. It took me a month to want to go up to that lovely tourist attraction. Actually, I probably wouldn’t have even gone if it wasn’t for one of Maureen’s friends visiting. She wanted to see Moulin Rouge and I haven’t, so I agreed to go! Moulin Rouge didn’t really look like I expected it too. It was smaller and I don’t know if the windmill on top was the real one that used to stand there. Unfortunately the shows are too expensive to actually go inside the place to see stuff.. but that might be a later trip to Paris in my life when I have more money.

Next we wandered around trying to find Sacre Coeur. The map of the streets was difficult to use because Paris streets aren’t formed in any sort of pattern (much like Binghamton), so I decided it would be best if we just followed the crowds of tourists and the signs. We wandered through this cute little village feel. It’s amazing that it feels Parisian, but separated at the same time. Which makes complete sense because Montmatre was a separate village next to Paris until it was annexed in 1895. It was such a nice day also that being in the sun was so warm and felt so much like spring. There was so much activity. We found a band playing music and the artists selling their paintings. I would’ve liked to have bought one, but they were too expensive.

We found Sacre Coeur though and we didn’t even have to walk up the stairs! We somehow walked up the back way, which makes sense because we walked uphill. The hill wasn’t even that bad. This bascillica though is HUGE. I knew it was big.. but I still couldn’t believe it! It was crazy! There were swarms of tourists around (it’s funny that I say that when I technically am too).  I wish I could’ve taken more photos.. but I just snuck one. It was amazing. There were side chapels all around the periphery of the main alter, which was stunning and so large thanks to the dome being over it. It’s so strange because it really does look like a mosque from the outside, but the inside is very Byzantine and Catholic looking. It’s a odd juxtaposition that works somehow.

After that we just tried to get back to where we came from and walked past a million sex shops, which are near Moulin Rouge (go figure). 

Down With Rice Cakes

Monday February 28 was the happiest day in foodie history since I’ve been here in Paris. I was having a normal day of class when I decided to go grocery shopping with Jessi afterwards. We went to this bio-coop and it was the Mecca of gluten free products. Seriously. I haven’t seen this much gluten free stuff in one sitting since I’ve arrived here. I splurged a little and bought chocolate cereal, crackers, pizza crusts, gluten free nutella, chocolate chip cookies, baguette and gluten free pain au chocolate. All are great. It is just such a relief to finally have real food to eat. I mean, I love rice and lentils and gluten free pasta, but I was craving something more bready. Two weeks of basically getting any form of bread from rice cakes starts to wear on your nerves. I love rice cakes, I just can’t stand eating 7 of them a day!

My Spread

One more thing I discovered is that polenta is cheap and versatile. I know my dad said it was, but I now believe him. And I’ve been eating it as my oatmeal for breakfast, pouring in soymilk, lots of cinnamon, honey and whatever else I have on hand. I might try to make some savory soon. But it’ s filling and doesn’t make me feel sick like the Quaker Oats do.

So now I basically have more food than I know what to do with, but rest assured, it will all be eaten up! 

Trip to the Sea

Last weekend I took a weekend trip through my program to Normandy, Saint-Malo (in Brittany) and Mont Saint-Michel. It was during this trip that I realized just how wonderfully diverse France is, even when the country is one eighth the size of the United States. Don’t get me wrong, I already knew it was wonderfully diverse, but seeing it in person just makes it a entirely new realization. It’s crazy how the culture can develop so differently in a 4 hour time span. Even how much the geography changes. Seriously, France has it all in terms of geography, which is the reason for its diversity.

We started our journey in Normandy, learning about all the history of World War II that occurred there. Our first stop was at the Arromanche museum. This is the point where the British invaded from on D-Day by creating an artificial port. I wish I could’ve recorded the video of how they created this. It was an engineering wonder. They made so much stuff and brought it over from Britain and sunk most of it, only to easily rise the giant concrete blocks when they planned their attack. Some of the port still remains, and we got to see it on the beach. The water and view was so breathtaking everywhere here. It was my first time seeing the Atlantic from this side (and it was incredible). We had such a nice day to walk on the beach too! It was really sunny but windy. Then all the sudden dark clouds came in and it began to pour! So we all ran inside for shelter and to eat lunch anyways. We found this cute quick place and I had a salad with cheese and a Perrier.

Part of the port that's left!

Our next point was Omaha Beach, which has the American Cemetery for those who died in the Normandy invasion.  This beach was different from the Arromanche one. The sand was softer and it looked like the Hamptoms. The views did not cease to impress.  The Cemetary was incredibly sombering. 9000 soldiers are buried here, mostly from D-Day and a lot from after then as well. They all face west towards United States. Because of the cemetery, this is considered American soil. Celine (my program director and professor) said “you guys are back home. This is American soil.” When she said that I started to tear up a little bit. I tried to search for Uncle John, but I had forgot to ask at the front desk where he was and I didn’t remember how to spell his name. So I’m sorry I couldn’t pay my respects Uncle John. Rest in Peace. I’ll have to return someday to find you.   

Our next stop had to be the most solemn part of the day: Point du Hoc. There is a statue that commemorates the brave soldiers who scaled the cliff (which was incredible) to invade into this German occupied area to disarm the artillery. There are bomb trenches EVERYWHERE and bunkers that are so morbid because it still feels like there’s death in there.  Since we were standing on a cliff, the view was so amazing. The cliffs were gorgeous, I can’t even begin to describe it.

This is why this place was creepy...

Last point of traveling for the night was to Saint-Malo (we had a long way to drive to get here). This place is amazing because it’s what the Old City of Quebec is modeled after. As soon as Celine mentioned it I exclaimed “That’s why it looks so familiar!” Because it did look like I had been here before, just less snow and sickness. It’surrounded by a giant stone wall and it gorgeous. We stayed in this great little hotel right inside the wall. All of us for dinner went and got galettes, which are one of the specialities of Brittany. We had hard cider (another specialty) and I had a galette with scallops (seafood is good here) and leeks and mushrooms and cheese. It was amazing. For dessert Marianna and I split this FABULOUS ice cream sundae of chocolate ice cream, amazing hot fudge and lots of whipped cream on top. It was so great. When the waiter brought it out everyone at the other table just turned around and exclaimed “WOWW” and stuff like that. Then after that we went back to hotel and tried to find our other friends who were in a bar right around the corner called “L’Alchemiste” the Alchemist. I had a glass of Bordeaux. I wasn’t in the mood for heavy drinking after a huge dinner and needed to get up early. But it was fun to hang out with everyone.

The next morning Jessi and I woke up nice and early at 7:30 to get ready to go down to the continental breakfast. IT WAS A HUGGEE SPREAD. There were hardboiled eggs and fresh to make softboiled, a million kinds of jelly and cheese and all kinds of bread, yogurt, fruit salad, oranges, apples, dried fruit, tea, coffee, orange juice, cereal. I ate so much. It was fantastic. Then I took more food to eat later for lunch. After we walked on top of the wall of Saint-Malo. I think I loved this view of the water the best. It was so calm and peaceful early in the morning  and bright and sunny. We got so lucky with the weather.

Afterwards we spent a few hours on the bus traveling to Mont Saint-Michel. This was a wonder to see. The abbey set atop a huge hill on an island is a little awe-ing. We walked up to the abbey and everything was so cute and beautiful. The view just kept getting better the higher we went up the hill. I was so amazed and in love with everything. The abbey was HUGE and it felt like it kept going. We wanted to get the lamb (which is a specialty here) for lunch, but we didn’t have enough time..  But it was a great experience and it was so worth it.  

The Abbey

The VIEW

FOOOOD

Lentils: For the times that I eat too much cheese and feel fat. 

Chocolate Mousee: for the times when I don't care about feeling fat

Steak Frites: Because I can't afford to actually eat this in a bistro

Croque Madame: My new favorite sandwich. Mostly because it's covered in cheese and butter

This is actually pre-packaged creme things with oeufs. OMG IF ONLY EVERY PRE-PACKAGED DESSERT TASTED LIKE THESE. I'm going to really miss these when I come back from France..

Okay, so it took me a month of living here, but I think I'm finally staring to get where I'm going and not look like an idiot all the time. It's sort of an amazing thing, I walked around the Latin Quarter today and I knew where I was going for pretty much the whole time. I had such a game plan since my classes didn't start until 2. I decided for days that I have large blocks of time, I will not return back to my foyer and just sit here. I need to go out and see Paris while I'm here. And I feel it's best to experience it on days that most tourists aren't around anyways (even though I feel like there are ALWAYSS tourists around)! I wanted to find this church that has the last rood screen in Paris, which is this GORGEOUS double staircase seating that leads up to this little alter where the chorus and monks used to sit to separate them from the parishinars. I realized that this church I wanted to see is one in the same that contains the ruins of Sainte-Gennevieve, one of the patron Saints of Paris. It has hours that it's open.. I got there at 12:10 and it closed at noon.. Therefore, I have to go back. Then I decided since it was starting to get closer to the time I had class, I would continue my voyage in the latin quarter to discover other new things!

I wanted to find Eglise de Saint-Julien le Pauvre because one: it's close to the building where my grammar class is held and two: it's the oldest church in Paris. I realize it's pretty much right across the street from the church I saw yesterday, Saint-Severin. It's really tiny and adorable, but unfortunately, it was closed as well! This one I don't even know when to go back to it because there wasn't any hours listed on the building!
I just looked it up.. it was closed the time I got there too... it's only closed for 2 hours during the day and I happened to miss both of them (it's okay.. I can go Monday, I don't have class until 2 again then as well).

Behind it there is the great little park/square. It's called Square Rene-Viviani. It's adorable and it just happens to overlook Notre Dame. It's weird when you realize how close everything is! It freaked me out a little bit! Then I wandered back toward Boulevard Saint Michel searching for this crepe stand that has a galette batter that is made completely with buckwheat. I wasn't super hungry, but I was dying to try one since I haven't had a crepe yet since I've been here!! On the way, I discovered Shakespeare and Co (a little late I know..)I found the crepe stand and I got one filled with Emmentaler cheese. It was overflowing with gooey  deliciousness! I think I may have found my new lunch spot! And for 2.50 euro, how can you go wrong (I stupidly forgot to take a photo, so therefore I'm just GOING to have to go back. Oh darn)! Afterwards, I realized just how close it was to my class so I started to try to run back to get to Boulevard Saint-Germain. I realized that the creperie is extremely close to my building and that I can go there every day before class (but I feel like that is not a good thing for my waistline)!

After class I realized that that little park I was in before is right past my building! So if I had gone out the other way, I would've just been at my building! Basically this is the best thing ever! I can eat my crepe in a lovely little park and look at Notre Dame!

I may have not been able to see the inside of any of the churches I wanted to today, but I have started to learn my way around the latin quarter and start to feel a little more Parisian and less like a tourist (even though some guy standing outside a restaurant wanting me to eat there was all "American" and I ignored him then as I walked away he said "Boston" and I turned and looked at him rather coyly and then just walked away).